‘A Mighty Mouse Among Lions’

HIGHBANK COONAWARRA PROPRIETARY RED 2001 ($44.95)

A fresh minty note on the nose, then pure and stylish plum and chocolate notes in the mouth. If you've been put off by Australian wines that come on too foursquare, this elegant red will restore your faith. A Bordeaux blend of
cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc. (At Morrell, 212-688-9370.)

Highbank is starting to appear in the right places. They're on the shelves of such high profile wine shops as Morrell at Rockefeller Center and Whole Foods at the Time Warner Center. They're served at top-end restaurants including Daniel, Artisanal, and Masa. Just-opened Yumcha, the buzzy Asian fusion restaurant in Greenwich Village, will shortly inaugurate a wine list that omits such standards as red Bordeaux and California Cab but includes Highbank.

In Atlantic City, the foodie-friendly casino Borgata pours Highbank wines, as do the Breakers and Four Seasons in Palm Beach. In all wines are in more than 60 East Coast restaurants.